Thursday, October 06, 2005

Back from Qingdao

Qingdao was much quieter and cleaner than Jinan. Fresh off the train, we asked some students to help us find the hotel we booked at the Ocean University Campus. They escorted us all the way there, even rolled a couple of our suitcases. After we checked in, they asked to be our tour guides. We agreed to meet them for an evening tour of Qingdao: the best vantage point, the square and a seafood dinner. In fact, we met them three more times after that for more touring. It was rather nice to get to kick back and follow the group around. I wanted a break from speaking ESL English, so Josh and I often lagged behind or ahead of the gang.
On that first night, we saw some stalls selling touristy junk set up along a pier. Naturally, we wanted to peruse the stalls and marvel at the seashell trinkets. One of our student guides, who called himself David, escorted us making sure we kept our hands on our wallets and didn't make any purchases without him being present. He would lose face if something were to happen to us in China under his care. Now, I couldn't tell if the place was shady, or if I just got that vibe from the way our young guide was behaving. He really fretted over us straying too far from him. Belinda, an American teacher with us, had her eye on a stone turtle. Our guide quickly appeared at her side while she took bargaining into her own hands offering to pay half the quoted price. David looked nervous. Next, David spoke some English to Belinda, took her arm and they walked away. The man selling the turtle was furious and loudly berated David causing heads to turn on the crowded pier. This all ended with some debate later that evening. Belinda simply wanted a stone turtle with some Chinese characters painted on it. She didn't mind paying far more than it was worth because it was still only $6 US. David thought that price was exploitive and wouldn't allow it to happen under his watch. I was in the camp of 'whats the big deal, this is a little dance that tourists and locals do all over the world. Let her buy the junk for an outrageous price.' Josh disagreed with me. Care to weigh in?
On day two, we went to the infamous LaoShan--Qingdao's seaside mountain. And so did 10,000 other people. We jumped on a bus in town, prepared to stand for the two hour ride. It was much cheaper than hiring a driver. What I wasn't prepared for was how many people they would allow on the bus. When we got on, I had never seen a bus so full, but sure enough we made about 15 stops on the way up, and at every stop, another 6 or 7 people boarded. A woman was there to push people on. At one point, I was almost off the floor of the bus. Mei, our smallest traveller, was twisted, pushed and pulled in all directions. It was mad. And I said that out loud. "This is mad!" I shouted everytime more people crammed on. Of course nobody could understand me....I assumed.
On the train back to Jinan, as the cars filled with smoke from the dozens of cornhusk fires along the way, I got an excited feeling. I realized that it was that nice feeling of returning home. Jinan feels like home. It may not be as clean and fancy as Qingdao, but I like the way life spills out onto the streets here---even if it gets a little messy.








As is shown above, it is not uncommon to be stopped by groups of students who wish to spend a few minutes practicing English. Belinda is the blonde and Mei is in the sunglasses.
In a few hours, those fish will be on skewers cooking over some hot coals, selling for 1 quai apiece.
Our helpful guides.

Karen in front of a delicious lunch. Fried squid, pork and eggplant, an egg and mushroom soup, tofu, spinach roti wraps.

The city almost looks European.
I consume more tea here than I did in New Zealand. Its all we drink in restaurants.

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home